After more than 400 articles here over the past few years, I'm sure I'll get redundant, but it's probably easier for me to write about a topic again than it is for you all to search the archives. Today, I'm addressing a question from Greg J., who asked:
"In my quest for a new wedge set, I was wondering what your thoughts were on choosing wedge shafts. Assuming a player has chosen proper lofts to complete his or her wedge set, uses a 3/4 "wedge swing" and flights wedges properly..... what shafts would you recommend? Do you play what is in your irons? Should you opt for these new "spinner" shafts. What are your thoughts?"Well, Greg, as you might imagine, this is a pretty broad subject, but let me see if I can shed some light for you. At EIDOLON, we guide our customers that your wedges should be “blended to your irons, matched to each other and fitted to you.” A big piece of that formula is the shaft you choose. Unfortunately, wedges in the racks in the golf stores all offer pretty much the same old heavy and stiff steel shaft – one size for everyone. I disagree with that approach completely, but then we don’t build and sell wedges by the thousands to the major stores . . . . we build and sell them one at a time to the golfer who’s going to actually play them.
When it comes to the shaft in your wedges, you’re asking a lot. They have to give you full shot trajectory control so that your distances are consistent. For a stronger player that could mean a pretty stiff flex profile. But they also have to give you precise feel and control of those touch shots around the greens where clubhead speed is only a few miles per hour. And the strongest player and weakest player are the same in that environment. To solve this dilemma, I strongly advocate the following:
1. Select a shaft for your wedges that closely approximates the weight of your short iron shafts. If you play standard weight steel, then choose that. Light graphite in your irons? Demand the same in your wedges. This, of course, means you need to retrofit the wedges you have, or buy from a company that will accommodate your needs (good luck on that).So, Greg, there’s the start I recommend for your quest for better wedge play. I understand the new Dynamic Gold Spinner is built along my recommended profile, but I also understand it’s only available in Stiff Flex – what a shame.
As for me, I do play the same shafts in my irons as my wedges . . . mostly. My irons are built on the UST Mamiya ProForce V2 constant weight shaft, which they unfortunately discontinued. And my 9-iron through wedges are built on the EIDOLON GENIUS™ 9 graphite, which is the same weight as the V2, built for us by UST Mamiya to optimize scoring club performance. I think it’s a deadly combination.
And Greg, you have won a FREE V-SOLE wedge for sending in the question today. This gives you a chance to see for yourself what premium shafts can do to improve your short game.
You other readers should be loading me up with questions, too.
The Wedge Guy is sponsored by SCOR Golf, where Terry Koehler is President/CEO. He encourages you to submit your questions or topics to be considered for his columns on Tuesdays and Fridays. Each submission automatically enters you to win a SCOR4161 wedge to be given away monthly. Click the button below to submit your question or topic today.
[ comments ]
SD Charlie says:
Good question and answer!
IMO, the shaft is the component that will have gratest influence in the ball flight, what the ball does after landing will have much to do with loft, grooves, AOA, spin rate, etc.
There are so many shafts out there, so where to start? I agree with Terry's approach, tune your wedge shafts to match your irons, (weight, flex, bend point) so you have more consistency in your shots, I also play a bit with my club configuration, I have a progressive swingweight in my PW, GW, and SW, seems to work fine.
When changing/adding clubs on my bag, the best thing that works for me is to get to a range and start hitting different options.
In the beginning of your answer, you said this was a pretty broad subject. You got my attention. But then you never got around to the pictures of the pretty broads.?
Great points - though I was one of those who did well to grab the heavy steel shaft off the rack - they matched my irons pretty closely. Now I've added another wedge to replace my P from the set(4 total), come down from 60* tops, to 59*, and realized from looking at my irons' specs that wedge shafts needed to be shortened as well. Even though the shafts were a good match before, I now have a very tightly blended and matched set of scoring clubs. It feels like a new set of shocks and tires. Merlin, want to continue the car metaphor. Are you the road or the engine?
Matching wedge shafts is like the wedgeguy's raison d'etre.
Bryan K says:
lol, Merlin. I love your sense of humor.
OK, OK, my head hurts already. I play PXi 7.0's in my Callaway Tour Prototype blades and LOVE them. What do you recommend I put in my Callaway Jaws 60* wedge to increase the spin rate?? Thank you!
Great article. Having a fairly light or lighter iron shaft with an R Flex just doesn't seem to match up very well with a heavy stiff shafted wedge shaft in my experience and the manufacturer's have muddied up the situation by almost always offering one of the heavier shafts and stiff flex, which might not work out very well for most amateur golfers.
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